Walking in the footsteps of giants

Apr 11 2008 by Christopher Rees, Western Mail

After performing at the annual South By Southwest music festival in Texas, Welsh musician Christopher Rees went on a pilgrimage to Tennessee, the birthplace of the music that inspires him. Here the Box Office columnist shares his travelogue

March 12

AS if by some divine intervention, as soon as the South By Southwest (SXSW) music festival starts, out comes the sunshine, which makes skipping from one afternoon party/barbecue/showcase to another a breeze. As evening approaches I catch sets by grumpy old Van Morrison, an unprecedented recital of work by New York composer Steve Reich and REM on good form and in surprisingly great spirits. One of the amazing things about SXSW is that you have the opportunity to see acts in far more intimate surroundings than usual. You clock up a fair few miles walking around everyday though, and your lower back, legs and feet pay the price. Sleep is a scarce commodity here too. SXSW once even had T-shirts printed saying, ‘Sleep is for the weak, sleep when you're dead.’

March 13

Today is my first gig at the New Music From Wales showcase. The place is packed by the time I take to the stage and I must confess to being a little nervous. But as soon as I strap on my banjo and start singing any worries quickly disappear. The crowd is enthusiastic and I even get the whole room singing during a gospel-style song called Take My Hand. Six songs later I’m off again. My next gig is quite a different affair. An Austin PR company invites me to play its annual party just outside town. The atmosphere cannot be more different with hippie art, sculptures and fairy lights hanging from the trees. What happens next will stick in my memory for some time. The mellowness of the environment is rudely interrupted as I approach the microphone to be hit by a startling electric shock. I jump back in disbelief. I try again. Bam! And again, Bam! Six times, before we figure out I have a dodgy extension cable on my amp. Then there are the cicadas (large cricket-like insects). I’m already a bit freaked out after the electric shocks, but when they pipe up I think it’s the stage lights buzzing, ready to explode around my ears. Then a huge freight train comes chugging past, whistle blowing. The whole thing is really quite surreal.

March 14

I’m not playing any shows today so have plenty of time to explore the parties and other gigs. Highlights come from the North Mississippi Allstars, who rip it up with their Delta-drenched electric blues rock and the wonderful Devotchka – the Denver band who regular readers of my column will know produced one of my favourite albums of last year.

March 15

It’s my official SXSW showcase today but as I’m not playing until midnight I manage to catch Welsh soul sensation Duffy playing at Stubbs. There is a real buzz about Duffy around town and judging by the response, she'll soon be replicating her UK success in America. I also drop in to see Justin Townes Earle (son of Steve Earle) who is unexpectedly excellent in a Hank Williams kind of way. Back at the 18th Floor, Hilton Garden Inn, I feel much more relaxed and at ease, which I think reflects well in the way I play my final show. The audience responds really well and I even score a couple of gigs with legendary Texan country songwriter Billy Joe Shaver as a result – a big deal to me as his songs have been recorded by heroes like Elvis, Cash and Dylan.

March 19

After delayed flights and lost luggage I wake up in Memphis at The Heartbreak Hotel just opposite Graceland – Elvis' former home. It's a real trip for Elvis fans, with his music and movies streamed throughout the hotel 24/7. I take the tour of Graceland with my eyes wide open and mouth ajar. I've been a fan of Elvis since childhood so the opportunity to explore his home and memorabilia is overwhelming. The house itself, dressed in outrageous ’70s décor, is smaller than you might think, but the halls filled with gold records, guitars and clothes, and other exhibits of cars, motorbikes and planes, are mind-blowing. Later, strolling around the blues bars on Beale St, I come across Samuel L Jackson shooting for a new film called Soul Man. Strange but true.

March 20

As a huge fan of the Stax label and the deep southern soul voices of Otis Redding and The Staples Singers among others, the Stax Museum is a high priority for me. Housing a wealth of delights, it takes you on a journey through the evolution of American soul music – from gospel into blues and old-time country – before telling the story of how Stax came to prominence and produced so many timeless hits. But I can honestly say that I have never felt so completely and utterly in awe of anything in my entire life as I do when I step through the doors of Sun Studios. It is, after all, “the birthplace of rock’n’roll”, where a young Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis first recorded and started a revolution. Complete with original wall tiles, cracked floors and iconic photographs it’s hard to comprehend that this was where it all happened – or rather exploded – and changed the world of music forever. X marks the spot where Elvis's microphone stood. My heart begins to race and I start to shake at the prospect of stepping near to it. Once again I’m completely overwhelmed.

March 21

The Rock’n’Soul Museum is my next destination. It also provides an enlightening journey through American music with an interactive headphone tour that guides you through exhibits bursting with everything from vintage record players and jukeboxes to more Elvis and Cash items and the original radio transmitter from the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville, which is where I’m heading next.

March 22

After a brief stop in Nashville, I head for the Appalachian Mountains. The Jack Daniels Distillery in Lynchburg just happens to be on the way so it would be rude not to pay a visit to the home of “the rock’n’roll mouthwash”. Did you know it was originally made from an old Welsh whiskey recipe?

March 23

The folk music of the Appalachian Mountains has fascinated me since I first heard The Harry Smith Anthology of American Folk Music so I desperately want to explore the region. The Museum Of Appalachia in Norris is like stepping back in time. Founded by John Rice Irwin in 1969, it's been developed in a remarkably organic and heartfelt manner from one man's collection and love for the people, the place, the music and the traditions of Appalachian life. Presenting everything from the indigenous instruments of the area and tributes to music pioneers like The Carter Family as well as lesser-known characters, it also includes farming/craft artefacts and the restored cabins of Mark Twain and Daniel Boone. It's a real American treasure.

March 24 to 27

However country music has changed over the years, Nashville is still the music capital of America and thriving with musical talent in search of stardom. The Country Music Hall Of Fame celebrates its trailblazers with another compelling tour packed with information and fantastic memorabilia. Likewise, The Grand Ole Opry (now relocated to Music Valley outside of town) continues to preserve its legacy and promote new acts. I catch a highly entertaining show featuring veterans Little Jimmie Dickens and Ricky Skaggs among others. The Ryman Auditorium is still standing and offers a tour rich in atmospheric charm and tales of the good old days. They even allow visitors to step up onto the legendary stage for photo opportunities and a song. I give a trembling rendition of Hank Williams’ I’m So Lonesome I Could Cry. Once again I feel completely in awe of the history of the place and the footsteps that I’m following.

Like nowhere else, music is the lifeblood of Tennessee. From the blues, soul and rock’n’roll of Memphis, to the country of Nashville and the bluegrass and folk music of the Appalachians, it's such an essential thread in the fabric of life here. The entire state revolves around it. I had high expectations of Tennessee before I arrived, but it went way above and beyond what I was prepared for. I'm still reeling from the experience and more inspired than ever.

For the full travelogue journal, visit www.christopherrees.co.uk or www.myspace.com/christopherrees