Couple’s dream Russian restaurant comes to Wales

Feb 13 2008 by Sally Williams, Western Mail

THERE was a time when Russians looked to the West for culinary influences – and all we gave them was McDonald’s.

But the culinary tables are now set to turn this weekend with the arrival of what is believed to be the first Russian restaurant in Wales.

Gordon Peacock and his Russian wife, Irina, are putting the final touches to Swan Lake, in Newport, which its owners claim will be the first authentic restaurant of its kind when it opens on Saturday.

On every visit to Russia in the past few years, the couple have made a “pilgrimage” to the Khokhloma factory, involving a 12-hour train ride to the village of Syomino, to bring back hand-crafted wooden kitchenware.

And they hope Welsh diners will warm to the exotic splendour of the restaurant’s opulent chandeliers, rich Russian tapestries and swan-carved mirrors that aim to create a real “wow factor” that is far from the humble peasant beginnings of Russian cuisine.

Mr Peacock said, “There are several Russian restaurants in London and one or two in Manchester, Liverpool and Birmingham but we will be the only one in Wales.

“All of our bowls and cutlery are made from wood to a traditional design and have golden detail. They are hand-painted and look beautiful.”

Originally from Somerset, Mr Peacock moved to Newport five years ago after he met Irina who had moved to South Wales from St Petersburg.

He added, “I had always wanted to open a Russian restaurant and was looking for somewhere suitable to do so. We are trying to be different from any other Russian restaurant in the UK because we want to be 100% authentic.

“Our chef, Devidas Stankevicius, who worked at London’s Hilton Hotel, and our waitresses are all from Russia too.”

When they moved to the pub, 14 months ago, it was doing well so they ploughed the profits into a complete refurbishment of the dining area. The conversion of the pub/restaurant, next door to their public house The Six Bells, has been nine months in the making and they had considered other Russian-themed names, including Red Square.

Mr Peacock emphasised that guests might find Russian dining more familiar than they imagine.

He added, “People ask me, ‘what is Russian food?’ And I tell them that quite a few Russian dishes, such as Beef Stroganoff and Chicken Kiev, are already on mainstream menus. And beef and pork served together features in Russian cooking.

“But there are a few differences, there is no point in asking for steak and chips for example because Russians don’t have chips, they have potatoes.

“And pork is often topped with cheese. The food is all about healthy eating off the land – and the land is vast.”

The food will be served with drinks that include Georgian wine, Baltika beer and plenty of vodka will be on the shelves.

Mrs Peacock said she doesn’t plan on spending much time in the kitchen because she is an accountant and does the paperwork, concentrating on the business side of the venture instead.

She added, “Wooden plates have been used in Russia for 500 years, mainly for special occasions. They help to keep the food warm or cold and I think food tastes better off them. They have to be washed separately.

“My son Vagim is going to help out too. I like Wales because everyone is so friendly and I like the culture and the mountains.”